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The Blog from Oi Polloi presents: by Sam Waller •

For this episode of Eatery of the Month, we’re voyaging deep into the heart of the Metropolitan Borough of Tameside, to visit a little gem by the name of Stewarts.

Stewarts is located at the end of a row of terraced houses halfway between Denton and Hyde. You could say it was a rose between two thorns, but seeing as both Denton and Hyde are pretty nice places, that would be doing them a disservice. Perhaps you could call it a rose between two roses, or to be more appropriate, a pie between two pies?

Yep, pies are the Stewarts speciality and pies are what Stewarts does best. Unlike some inferior establishments that just chuck greasy ready-made globules into their microwaves, Stewarts make their pies on the premises, and when that warm blend of cheese and onion collides with your taste-buds, you’ll be glad they did.

Stewarts also know their way around a cake, and their iced fingers certainly deserve your attention. In a similar way to how a good slice of Margherita is the mark of a good pizzeria, a good iced finger is truly the mark of a good baker. The iced fingers at Stewarts are better than good — not only are they filled with chunky raisins, but they’re covered with about three feet of icing.

Very nice, but who or what is Stewart? I asked the helpful woman behind the counter and she explained that Stewart is the man who has owned the place for the last 25 years. Judging by the For Sale sign outside, Stewart is finally throwing in the apron, but hopefully another baker will step up to the plate. Hopefully hes called Stewart too. 

Rating: A humble shopfront in a good location full of hearty pies, I give Stewarts five iced fingers out of five.

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